On a pine-covered peninsula along the Athens Riviera – the city’s southern suburbs, that stretch down to the sea – Four Seasons Astir Palace gives guests the best of both worlds. It’s half an hour from the ancient centre, but with 75 acres of cove-studded coastline (including three private beaches) to retreat to. The concierge can arrange an archaeologist to take you on a tour around the Acropolis; and try not to fall asleep in the spa, where further classical enlightenment awaits – it’s inspired by the teachings of Hippocrates.